Matt Rohrer shares some of the highlights of his conversations with Bay Area surfer Jimmy Holt, focal point of one of the few surfing photos to ever appear in National Geographic Magazine. Selected photos: Jim Shaw

Chris Preston chats to Neil Randall of if6was9 about his radical take on traditional board design, Noosa's retro vibe, and his love of vintage style. Photos Dane Peterson

Chris Preston interviews Sydney's Matt Chojnacki. His surfing may be heavily influenced by the glories of the past, but to tag him as just another retro dude is missing the mark. Words: Chris Preston. Photos: Matt Johnson / thesealife.com.au

Using locally sourced timber and having designed a manufacturing process that minimises waste, Mike LaVecchia of Grain Surfboards has cornered the market in beautiful, sustainable wooden boards. And the best bit? They ride like a dream. Photos: Nick LaVecchia

A surfer from Noosa's sun drenched shores obsessed with the dark world of gothic horror, Jai Lee's personal struggles and addiction to noseriding have twisted his creativity. Words: Chris Preston Photos: Thomas Robinson (pp 1&3), Andy Staley (pp4)and Dane Peterson

One of the great things about surfing in this current era is the wide acceptance of different board designs. Over the last 10 years, it has become acceptable to pretty much ride anything from surfmat to singlefin, fish to longboard. Words: Chris Preston Photo (2): Dan Crockett


The best day ever

July 18, 2009 | Words By:

tom and matt28th March, 2009: today was the greatest day a surfboard maker could imagine. Well, the greatest I could imagine anyway…

I made the ritual Saturday pancakes and had a long nap. Then the kids took off with Marg to a school fund-raising function just as Matt, Christian, Cameron and George bowled up the driveway with a carton of beer. They had come to make alaias.

christian wach at workTheir enthusiasm was a bit overwhelming to be honest, but I love this sort of stuff so we got stuck in. Matt (Williams, my apprentice) really took charge, which is a dream for me because I could basically talk story, drink beer, and take all the credit. It was a real buzz to see the guys take up the tools and charge. I wish I could have done this when I was a kid – I messed up my parents’ garage something awful with foam and resin when I started making boards.

I couldn’t stop myself so I helped (took over) the making of Christian’s board. We started at 11:30am, and at 3:30pm one of the boys asked if we could take the boards out this afternoon. By 4:10pm the boards were finished to a fine surfing standard and we were off to Little Cove.

the finished alaiasThe surf was perfect – it has been perfect a lot lately – and George and Cameron went out on their new boards. I was so stoked when Christian took out the ‘Tuna 4’ first and got a few waves for me to film. He got some long rides in the pocket and he was so stoked. Then he took out his new alaia and was even more stoked.

I drank another beer and filmed from the rock, then I got a few on the Tuna. Gee, I love that board. Actually, the board isn’t perfect, it’s the addicting glide that’s the rush.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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