Matt Rohrer shares some of the highlights of his conversations with Bay Area surfer Jimmy Holt, focal point of one of the few surfing photos to ever appear in National Geographic Magazine. Selected photos: Jim Shaw

God Went Surfing with The Devil is a film by Alex Klein, which documents the war-torn region of Gaza. At a time when tensions are high, this film investigates the attitudes and aspirations of a small pocket of people where surfing removes socio-political divisions and lets the ocean carry their aspirations for peace.

Sean Mattison has a reputation as a designer, a coach, and a businessman. His competitive experience, retail background and knowledge acquired from testing hundreds of surfboards made him one of the most versatile surfers in California. Words: Rui Ribeiro.

Drift checks in with Andrew Crockett following the release of the much-anticipated 'Switch-Foot II', a tribute to surfing's counter-culture.

Mark Sankey and Alexa Poppe discover Autumn's aquatic gifts in a late September road trip spanning France and Spain. Words: Mark Sankey. Photos and Design: Alexa Poppe

Mat Arney hooks up with some old friends to go feral on the Arabian Peninsula and hunt down some truly isolated swell. Words & photos: Mat Arney

Three days are better than nothing

June 08, 2011 | Words By:

Santiago Videla attempts to sum up three days of surfing, and what it means to him, by way of photo essay.


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You feel it , you try to avoid it , but it is strong. So you decide to go and face it.

 

0 Comments


  1. Guru says:
    November 16, 2012 at 7:53 pm

    Sue – Wow, the second priutce ..probably one of my favorites of all your work so far. Whatever you did to pull that pose and those expressions’ out of them ..is what may very well be the thing that makes you famous! Amazing work. Your camera is amazing too you go!

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