Matt Rohrer shares some of the highlights of his conversations with Bay Area surfer Jimmy Holt, focal point of one of the few surfing photos to ever appear in National Geographic Magazine. Selected photos: Jim Shaw

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Hidden away in a Falmouth boatyard among the classic lines of traditional timber ships is an unusual surfboard factory: one in which the boards are finished with wood and natural oils. Here tradition meets modernism. This is Glass Tiger. Words: Mark Sankey Action photos: Kirstin Prisk Other photos & design: Alexa Poppe

Highs and lows in Morocco. Photos and words by Dan Crockett.

Chris Burkard's photographs are about more than barrels, perfect point breaks, and carving radical lines – they capture a moment in which the surfer is a mere player and the real star is the scenery. Words: Dan Hamlin Photos: Chris Burkard

Tucked away at the top of a hill near Gwenver beach in Cornwall, Skewjacks was the definitive 1970s surf camp. Drift took four of its founding fathers - Dicky, Harvey, Jamo and Mickey - to the pub and reminisced about good times gone by. Words: Jamie Bott Credit & thanks to Graham Shephard & Mel Sedgwick


Patience

August 24, 2010 | Words By:

Batten down the hatches and bed in for the winter.
Check the weather charts every day.
Explore the reef on spring low tides.
Get to be so that you tell the time by the tide and not the tide by the time.
Watch.
Wait.
Be patient.
Tell the boss your car wouldn’t start.




0 Comments


  1. I think this is a nice poem and photograph, Mat.

    1
  2. Awww! Nice one, very well written. The photo looks perfect to the poem.. Very lovely!

    2


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