Matt Rohrer shares some of the highlights of his conversations with Bay Area surfer Jimmy Holt, focal point of one of the few surfing photos to ever appear in National Geographic Magazine. Selected photos: Jim Shaw

God Went Surfing with The Devil is a film by Alex Klein, which documents the war-torn region of Gaza. At a time when tensions are high, this film investigates the attitudes and aspirations of a small pocket of people where surfing removes socio-political divisions and lets the ocean carry their aspirations for peace.

Meeting a legend is something few people have the opportunity to do. During a short stay in California last winter Dave Muir created his own luck in finding Skip Frye at home. He was welcomed in to take a look around. Words: Dave Muir Photos: Dave Muir and Skip Frye

When legendary longboard designer Bob McTavish came to Devon recently as part of TIKI's international shaper tour, Chris Preston couldn't resist the opportunity to quiz him about the technicalities of board design... Photos: Jamie Bott

James Bowden kissed goodbye to Blighty and set off for Tasmania's wild in January this year. He shares some of his findings along the way with his own distinctive style.

Photographer Ben Thouard joins the Oxbow team aboard the Windward as they trawl pristine Pacific atolls in search of adventure, virgin waves and new opportunities.


The History of Surfing

August 13, 2010 | Words By:

History of Surfing Maybe an early Christmas present for your book worm surfing mate, written by one of the world’s leading surf historians, this nearly 500-page tome – with more than 300,000 words and 250 archival images – is the definitive book on surf history and culture.


Matt Warshaw knows a hell of a lot about surfing, and is up there with the most knowledgeable authors out there. After five years of research and writing, he has completed a totally unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. With a voice that is definitive, funny, and wholly original, The History of Surfing is definitely worth a read. If you were lucky enough to get hold of Photo/Stoner you’ll know he’s got access to some rare material and knows how to handle it.

Matt Warshaw is the former editor of SURFER magazine. A surfer all his life, he is the author of several books on surfing, including The Encyclopedia of Surfing, Maverick’s, Photo/Stoner: The Rise, Fall, and Mysterious Disappearance of Surfing’s Greatest Photographer, and Zero Break: An Illustrated Collection of Surf Writing 1777-2004. £35.00 and released in October.

History of Surfing



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