Matt Rohrer shares some of the highlights of his conversations with Bay Area surfer Jimmy Holt, focal point of one of the few surfing photos to ever appear in National Geographic Magazine. Selected photos: Jim Shaw

Luciano Burin catches up with Junior Faria, a pro surfer breaking the Brazilian mould, whose atmospheric photographs capture the happiness and freedom of surfing.

Flitting between awesome waves at Aileens and Nelscott Reef is all in a week's work for Ireland's big-wave master Al Mennie. Words: Al Mennie Photos: Al Mennie, Gary McCall, Larry Jansky, Richard Hallman

From Gerry Lopez to machine shaping and the retro scene, Tim Stafford chews the fat with UK surf veteran - and mighty leader of the Foam Asylum - Nigel Semmens

Chris Brunt chats to west Penwith's prodigal son and professional journeyman Sam Bleakley about his thirst for adventure and love of longboarding. [All photos by Chris Brunt.]

Co-founder of the original Aussie counter-culture surf bible, Tracks, and director of 'Morning of the Earth', Alby Falzon lives up to his reputation as the spiritual father of the alternative surf lifestyle. Words: Jair Bortoleto Photos: Courtesy of Alby Falzon


Chasing Dean by Tom Anderson

July 05, 2009 | Words By:

opener20Tom Anderson is fast becoming a major writing voice of his generation. First he brought us ‘Riding the Magic Carpet’ (Summersdale, 2006), his story of the small-town Welsh guy who dreams of riding Jeffrey’s Bay and after many roads less travelled fulfils it in fine style. Book review by Tim Kevan..

This time we have him taking on no less of an epic journey as he leaves Porthcawl in search of hurricane surf up the East coast of the United States. Once over there he meets up with a childhood friend and it is the dynamic between the two which takes this book well beyond an ordinary travelogue. In many ways it reads more like a novel and the humour in Anderson’s voice keeps the pages turning as he covers issues ranging from growing up and friendship to the obsession that is surfing and the moral issues this can raise, particularly when you’re chasing waves that come from such a destructive source. It’s definitely a classic and should appeal not only to surfers but to anyone who enjoys a cracking yarn well told.

‘Chasing Dean’ is out now in paperback, published by Summersdale.

Tim Kevan is the author of ‘Why Lawyers Should Surf’ and ‘BabyBarista and the Art of War’. Find out more at www.timkevan.com.


Comment


Advertise here