Matt Rohrer shares some of the highlights of his conversations with Bay Area surfer Jimmy Holt, focal point of one of the few surfing photos to ever appear in National Geographic Magazine. Selected photos: Jim Shaw

They're trained to defend their country and protect our freedom and liberty, but when active service is over, many soldiers find themselves struggling with personal and mental problems that the army just doesn't want to know about. Could surfing provide some answers? Words & photos: Russ Pierre

Kye Fitzgerald recounts the tale of the unusual return of Bobby Owens' magic board. Photos: Mark Onorati, Aitionn

In Florianopolis - Brazil's surf capital - during prime swell season, an incomplete line-up gets Clare Howdle thinking... (Photos 2, 3, 4&8: André Côrtes; photos 1&7: Zander Grinfeld, www.venncreative.co.uk)

London ad exec Tom Birmingham set off in November in search of adventure on the Southwest Indian coastline. Accompanied by guesthouse owners Ed and Sofie of Soul and Surf in Kerala, he soon found himself surfing uncharted waves to an audience of school children and fisherman. Words and Photos: Tom Birmingham

A road trip around the Scottish coastline reveals all of the anticipated joys along with a few unexpected pleasures. Words and Photos: Jonathan Barattini


“___”

December 16, 2009 | Words By:

opener6Johnny Abegg, the free-surfing, free-thinking, filmmaking whizz whom I spoke with this summer for Drift has now turned out a new film project, “___”, which he’s currently touring around a select few locations in Australia.

The film, simply known as “___”, is open to interpretation by the viewers. Johnny describes his latest project as “A glimpse into the surf/party underworld, away from the idealistic locations and groomed surf pornography of the mainstream. Exploring the fragmented world of a surf culture, through the blurred eyes of a few.”

debangoOur comrades in the States just published a wicked interview with Johnny, which you can read here.

And there’s more madness on the “___” blog.


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  1. OWWCH! It’s another one of those incidents that adds up with all the other incidents to be that thing we all love…Surfing! Where would we be without it?

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