Matt Rohrer shares some of the highlights of his conversations with Bay Area surfer Jimmy Holt, focal point of one of the few surfing photos to ever appear in National Geographic Magazine. Selected photos: Jim Shaw

Mat Arney hooks up with some old friends to go feral on the Arabian Peninsula and hunt down some truly isolated swell. Words & photos: Mat Arney

Portugal explodes onto the global big wave circuit with a handful of household names and a freakish wave canyon. Photos: Jorge Leal and Wilson Ribeiro.

Following the demise of Clark Foam, 'eco' boards and alternatives to petro-chemical products have been the focus of developments in surfboard technology. Words: Mark Sankey Photos: Alexa Poppe

In early 2008, longtime buddies Billy Hume, Jeff Myers, Joey Carter and Ben McBrien got together for a trip off the beaten track trip in search of waves and adventure. They headed for the icy waters of Alaska... Words: Jeff Myers Photos: Nick LaVecchia

Chris Burkard's photographs are about more than barrels, perfect point breaks, and carving radical lines – they capture a moment in which the surfer is a mere player and the real star is the scenery. Words: Dan Hamlin Photos: Chris Burkard


Fireplace fairytales

September 05, 2009 | Words By:

fireplace-fairy-talesMy time as au pair for the Italian family has come to an end; four weeks and three happy children later the drive back home leaves me time to reflect.

I started at eight in the mornings and finished sometimes late at night. My days were filled with outings, gelato, long lazy picnics on sunny afternoons. Never-ending farm days – from welcoming eight piglets into the world, watching them take their first breath of fresh air to saying good bye to Natasha the farm pony; visiting the puppies from dusk until dawn to skipping stones on the pond; and last but not least teaching the kids the sounds and names of the birds in the forest, indigenous to South Africa. Every moment shared in joy, freedom, excitement, laughter, sorrow and love.

forest-hall-09-074_1Life is one big learning curve; as Alanis Morissette puts it “You live you learn, you love you learn, you cry you learn, you lose you learn, you bleed you learn, you scream you learn”. Of my life so far, these moments have been the most precious and of all the lessons I have learned, these have been the most awakening. Challenging yourself, because running that extra mile is worth it every time. Patience and tolerance, because being inquisitive is not a crime but only a sign of a healthy heart and mind. Endless laughter, selflessness, unconditional love. There is excitement in knowing that every minute of every day is like no other, but that the sun rises every morning and sets every evening no matter how the day started or how it will end.

Hopscotch, beach slugs and forest walks. Sunsets, sunrise, bath time and fireplace fairytales. Sunshine, shadows and make believe. The world through a child’s eyes is something quite magical and I have truly become an observer, an admirer, a fan.

Life teaches us many things, every day, every minute, every sunny Sunday afternoon. Every day is new; every day is different. Valuable truths are found when our feet leave the ocean floor to help us float and swim. I left home with a cup half empty, I returned with cup half full.


0 Comments


  1. Love the balance in the cup. Depends how you approach it.

    1


Comment


Advertise here