Matt Rohrer shares some of the highlights of his conversations with Bay Area surfer Jimmy Holt, focal point of one of the few surfing photos to ever appear in National Geographic Magazine. Selected photos: Jim Shaw

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Meeting a legend is something few people have the opportunity to do. During a short stay in California last winter Dave Muir created his own luck in finding Skip Frye at home. He was welcomed in to take a look around. Words: Dave Muir Photos: Dave Muir and Skip Frye

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Scarface

July 27, 2009 | Words By:

scarfacei admit it. i am bowing to pressure after being called scarface and having a faithful reader demand i post a photo of what happens when someone’s fin kisses your cheek as you are dropping in on a wave…

well, stitches are what happen.

it was the second time i’ve suffered a cut this year. the first time it wasn’t my fault, but the second time it may have been. puerto viejo, one of the funnest and longest breaks in southern peru, was very, very crowded last saturday. just about every surfer in lima was out trying to catch waves that were between 8 and 10 feet. the accident happened after i had already decided it was too crowded to surf safely, and well after i caught my only wave of the day. having decided to go in, i relaxed too much and stopped concentrating. that’s always when trouble rears its ugly head.

in the future, i vow to get a pair of rubber fins to avoid hurting anyone with my board, and to stay on the sand on crowded days. i hope everyone else does the same. otherwise, we’ll all have to spend hours trying to persuade people that scars add character…

     

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