Matt Rohrer shares some of the highlights of his conversations with Bay Area surfer Jimmy Holt, focal point of one of the few surfing photos to ever appear in National Geographic Magazine. Selected photos: Jim Shaw

...in the age of the programmable hand. San Diego's Josh Hall explains why he has chosen to tread the well-worn path of hand-shaping, in conversation with Andy Smith. Photos: Garrett Highhouse, T. Colla, Ryan Tatar

Chris Preston chats to longboard maestro Steve Walden about his disappointment with the lack of recognition for the longboarding scene, what makes the Magic model magic, and working with GSI. Photos: Jamie Bott

One of the great things about surfing in this current era is the wide acceptance of different board designs. Over the last 10 years, it has become acceptable to pretty much ride anything from surfmat to singlefin, fish to longboard. Words: Chris Preston Photo (2): Dan Crockett

Highs and lows in Morocco. Photos and words by Dan Crockett.

Dane Peterson and Belinda Peterson-Baggs recently travelled to Indonesia with aid supplies that are still much in demand nearly four years after the tsunami... Words: Belinda Peterson-Baggs Photos: Dane Peterson; Adam Kobayashi


Scarface

July 27, 2009 | Words By:

scarfacei admit it. i am bowing to pressure after being called scarface and having a faithful reader demand i post a photo of what happens when someone’s fin kisses your cheek as you are dropping in on a wave…

well, stitches are what happen.

it was the second time i’ve suffered a cut this year. the first time it wasn’t my fault, but the second time it may have been. puerto viejo, one of the funnest and longest breaks in southern peru, was very, very crowded last saturday. just about every surfer in lima was out trying to catch waves that were between 8 and 10 feet. the accident happened after i had already decided it was too crowded to surf safely, and well after i caught my only wave of the day. having decided to go in, i relaxed too much and stopped concentrating. that’s always when trouble rears its ugly head.

in the future, i vow to get a pair of rubber fins to avoid hurting anyone with my board, and to stay on the sand on crowded days. i hope everyone else does the same. otherwise, we’ll all have to spend hours trying to persuade people that scars add character…


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