Matt Rohrer shares some of the highlights of his conversations with Bay Area surfer Jimmy Holt, focal point of one of the few surfing photos to ever appear in National Geographic Magazine. Selected photos: Jim Shaw

Stephen Jones, director of triple-award-winning surf film El Mar Mi Alma, shares his vision of the surf-blessed land of Chile, its people, and the ocean that defines it.

Jeff Divine remembers the time when surfers were akin to outlaws, and his photographs capture the days of uncrowded line-ups, good vibes and barefoot living. Words: Michael Fordham Photos: Jeff Divine

Meeting a legend is something few people have the opportunity to do. During a short stay in California last winter Dave Muir created his own luck in finding Skip Frye at home. He was welcomed in to take a look around. Words: Dave Muir Photos: Dave Muir and Skip Frye

Chris Brunt chats to west Penwith's prodigal son and professional journeyman Sam Bleakley about his thirst for adventure and love of longboarding. [All photos by Chris Brunt.]

This isn't a shameless plug. This is an encounter with a British company doing something special with surfboards. While the industry is focused on the multi-buck movers and shakers parading their eco-wares, let's not forget our homegrown talent. Words: Howard Swanwick Photos: John Morgan and Jamie Bott

Surfism: The fluid foundation of consciousness

March 07, 2012 | Words By:

This book is for the existential surfer who wants to ponder how reality is put together moment by moment. Words: Pierce Flynn, Ph.D

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The road to freedom

March 09, 2010 | Words By:

icelandMost of us shy away from philosophy. It’s irrelevant; too complex, too boring, too time-consuming. But did you know that ‘philosophy’ translates literally from Greek as ‘love of wisdom’? So if your idea of a good education is spending hours on Swaylocks researching displacement hulls, you can still safely consider yourself a philosopher. Or a philo-surfer. Geddit?
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