{"id":6294,"date":"2010-09-03T10:14:42","date_gmt":"2010-09-03T09:14:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/driftsurfingmagazine.driftdigital.co.uk\/?p=6294"},"modified":"2010-09-01T13:41:48","modified_gmt":"2010-09-01T12:41:48","slug":"moments-we-surf-for","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/driftsurfingmagazine.driftdigital.co.uk\/index.php\/archives\/6294","title":{"rendered":"Moments we surf for"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a> We still surf for a handful of moments. Moments that make the hours of trawling charts, freezing in rainy car parks and surfing inadequate waves worthwhile.<\/p>\n

These moments don\u2019t all have to be picture-perfect sun-drenched barrels. We paddle out into breaks all around the world, emerging with the same beaming smile from a mushy session at Saunton as the guy who just got slotted at an offshore, overhead Pipeline.<\/p>\n



\nThen there\u2019s the time you spend simply watching surf, whether it\u2019s from your car on a clifftop or in a surf flick. <\/p>\n

And think about how much you subconsciously observe while surfing. That split second the peak of a wave feathers up, the view from the shoulder as a guy sends some spray up on a deep turn, the view from beneath the surface as you duck dive.<\/p>\n

What about the time you saw a whale jumping in the bay as you sat out back, or the dolphins that you so happily let drop in on you\u2026 Even spotting a shoal of fish can be pretty magical. What other sports get you this close and comfortable with nature?<\/p>\n

It’s not just the animals that join you in the line-up either – it’s the people. What’s is more satisfying than seeing all your friends enjoying the same anticipation and stoke that you feel? The other day I experienced what I consider one of the most perfect moments I surf for.<\/p>\n

I had a split session on one of my brother\u2019s last days in Oz. We and our friend Jonesey headed to the Wreck in Byron Bay: not a huge swell, but lovely peeling lines. I swam out with my underwater housings to get some pictures of them both. Over the course of 2 hours I sacrificed catching some waves to shoot, but I emerged as stoked as them \u2013 simply watching them both carve lines knowing that I was capturing it for them got them pumped and put a smile on my face.<\/p>\n

After regrouping on the beach we hit another spot at Main Beach. This time I had my log under my arm. For 30 minutes we caught wave after wave, dropping in and paddling back out to the whoops from each other.<\/p>\n

45 minutes in, our friends Chris, Junior and John paddled out. A pack of friends in a lush sunset, on our own peak towards Clarkes Beach.<\/p>\n

We traded sets, pushed each others\u2019 surfing and messed around having some party waves.<\/p>\n

We all emerged with beaming grins and spent the evening chilling with an ice cold slab of beers.<\/p>\n

\"\"These are the moments we surf for.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

We still surf for a handful of moments. Moments that make the hours of trawling charts, freezing in rainy car parks and surfing inadequate waves worthwhile. These moments don\u2019t all have to be picture-perfect sun-drenched barrels. We paddle out into breaks all around the world, emerging with the same beaming smile from a mushy session […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":22,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[282],"tags":[81,1112,904],"class_list":["post-6294","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-chris-stevens","tag-australia","tag-clarkes-beach","tag-the-wreck"],"aioseo_notices":[],"aioseo_head":"\n\t\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t