Matt Rohrer shares some of the highlights of his conversations with Bay Area surfer Jimmy Holt, focal point of one of the few surfing photos to ever appear in National Geographic Magazine. Selected photos: Jim Shaw

Drift caught up with big-wave surfer Carlos Burle on home territory in Brazil to find out why he considers big-wave riding to be a playground for the few who have earned the privilege. Photos: Al McKinnon

Big-wave riding is an awe-inspiring experience, but what happens when things go wrong? In an exclusive extract from his new book, Al Mennie explains what it's like to survive the mother of all wipeouts.

When his career as a pro surfer was ended by cancer, Richie Lovett forged a new career in the manufacturing industry. Now he's singing the praises of machine-shaping technology. Words: Chris Preston Photos: Jamie Bott

Jimmy Newitt pays homage to one of South Devon's treasures - not a break but a surfer who stands tall in the crowd. Words: Jimmy Newitt Photos: Ollie Howe

Highs and lows in Morocco. Photos and words by Dan Crockett.


Scar foot

February 16, 2010 | Words By:

feetThere’s a scar on the instep of my left foot. It’s been there a while now, and I fear it’ll be there always for it’s quite unsightly. Actually, it was picked out by a child at the beach the other day.

“What’s that?” he said, prodding the dark patch of skin on my foot as only an inquisitive child can when unleashed from his passing parents.

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